It takes longer to crack open a Maryland blue crab than larger West Coast Dungeness, but that too, is part of the fun. James explained that during the Maryland summers, friends and families spend hours sitting together at picnic tables working through a pile of crab. It's a meal that's almost as much about the time spent at the table as it is about the morsels of crab meat. It stretches more than 500 miles from Virginia to New York. During their lifetimes, the crabs move between the fresh and saltwater areas of the bay, which comprises both. At this unassuming crab shack in Ahwatukee, these blue crabs provide a distinctive taste of the Chesapeake, both its flavors and its rituals. The Chesapeake Bay, where these crabs come from, is the largest estuary in the United States. I ate it unadorned, so I could understand the flavors of the flesh and what makes it special. James, on the other hand, said he prefers to keep a tin of Old Bay handy, so he can liberally add it to every bite. The crab was so steamy and hot that it burned my fingers as the shells came off in jagged crackles. I tried following his lead, but the whole process was harder and messier than he made it look. After cleaning out the gray gills and yellow "mustard" roe inside, he dug in with his fingers, popping the chunks of white crab meat directly into his mouth. James brought over his own crab and showed us what to do. He flipped it over and started tearing off segments of shell with a crab pick, deftly pulling off the legs and cracking the entire thing in half while it was still steaming. Still in their shells, the two male crabs were facing each other on the same paper plate, practically kissing. More: Bandeja, oden pot, Valentine squash salad: The best bites I ate this week An authentic East Coast experienceĪs promised, after 25 minutes of steaming, the crabs were ready. The tender roll was a perfect vehicle for the comforting, crispy fish. Almost like a po' boy, the large sandwich was a clunker, but the texture of the bread was soft and pillowy. It came lightly battered and fried and stuffed in a fluffy bolillo roll with lettuce, tomato, pickles and mayo. My favorite dish at Chesapeake Bay was the fried whiting sandwich. Whiting is an easy-eating, flakey fish similar to tilapia. The flesh was surprisingly mild, and the fish tasted mostly of the house seasoning mix of pepper, cayenne and garlic. The fish is presented as a taco, a salad, a sandwich, or with a couple of sides as a plate.įrom the "grilled" side of the menu, I forked into a firm-textured filet of red snapper. The seafood list has more than a dozen options including red snapper, whiting, catfish and tilapia, which are either grilled or fried in a thin cornmeal-and-flour-based batter. In addition to crab, the shop also serves a wide variety of fish and seafood preparations that are popular in mid-Atlantic states like Virginia, where James is from. It's not just about the crab at this seafood restaurant Even today, when there's a special occasion or a potluck, many families still gather to celebrate around a communal table mounded with shellfish. This festive style of eating is popular across the coastal areas of the South and up to New England, and while its origins are disputed, most agree the tradition dates back to at least the 1700s. The little shop specializes in an East Coast custom called the Maryland blue crab feast, a summertime celebration much like a crab boil, except that the crab is steamed rather than boiled. The latter provides sweeter meat, Yolanda said.Īnd she would know. The recently opened Chesapeake Bay Bistro was empty that afternoon, so James was happy to take his time guiding us through the menu of customizable options, featuring marinades like lemon pepper and garlic butter. You can even choose between male crabs or female crabs, identified by their red-tipped claws. More: Tart, crunchy Peruvian ceviche is ideal summer dish. A few minutes later, he returned with a large pot filled with dozens of crabs caked with a bright red Baltimore seasoning that includes a healthy dose of paprika, crushed red pepper and celery salt. The body was a muddled orange with streaks of baby blue on the legs and tips of the claws. James emerged from the kitchen and proudly set a fresh one on the counter. She added that 25 minutes is about how long it takes to dress and steam them with beer, apple cider vinegar and Old Bay seasoning. Owner James Brown picks up a weekly shipment of the Maryland blue crabs at Sky Harbor, explained his wife Yolanda, who stood behind a counter decorated with rubber flip flops. The shellfish had literally just arrived from the airport. View Gallery: Ahwatukee restaurant serves Maryland blue crabsĭown at a crab shack in Ahwatukee Foothills, I was told the wait for Chesapeake Bay blue crabs would be about 25 minutes.
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